| Thousands of people come to Manzanillo each year to fish,
and I wonder how many guys I've seen with the following T-shirt slogans: "The worst day fishing is better than the best day
working."
"My wife told me I would have to choose between her
or fishing. Sure gonna miss her."
"I live to fish!"
Being a scuba diver, I would rather photograph fish than
catch them, but I'll have to admit that deep sea fishing is very alluring. Having grown up
in the south, where catching a 3-pound bass can bring admiring looks from other fishermen,
the thought of hooking a 125-lb. sailfish and reeling him in is hard for me to imagine.
In order to write about
Manzanillo's most popular sport, I had to experience it, and was invited out on Sam and
Marilyn Shorts' (Ocean Pacific Adventures) 42 ft.
charter boat, the S.F. Marlin, to learn from the experts. It actually holds a dozen
people, but I went solo. I have also fished on their smaller 28 ft. Rosa Elena, which is
for only 4-5 people, but still very seaworthy.
At about 6:30 a.m. I arrived at the La Perlita dock in
downtown Manzanillo. It's not even light by that time, and a little chilly, but I could
already hear the muted sounds of the fishermen cleaning their boats, and bringing on the
bait, rods, coolers, sodas, beers, ice, and other assorted fishing gear. It takes a lot to
get ready to catch the BIG ONE, I guess! I watch as other tourists arrive by cab for their
designated charter boats, some with obvious hangovers from the night before (They'll be
feeding the fish out there--without bait!), others already on their first beer of the day.
Long live tourist season!
Sam, the boat owner, checked with me and asked if I got
seasick. Fortunately, I never do, but he had a product known as a "sea band,"
which is wrapped around the wrist on an accupressure point that eliminates the problem in
most people. Since deep sea fishing boats usually head out to blue water in open ocean, up
to 50 miles away from the harbor, it's a good idea to prepare yourself by taking an
anti-nausea medication. The roll and swell of the ocean can get to you if you're not used
to it, especially after visiting the Colima Bay Cafe the night before.
Finally, they were ready for me, and as I was helped aboard
by Hugo, the gorgeous green-eyed Mexican boat captain...(well enough about that), I
noticed that the deck, chairs and cabin were sparking clean and didn't smell a bit like
dead fish. This was good. At the back of the cruiser were two chairs, bolted to the floor,
each having some sort of a swiveling holder thingy between your legs when you sat down.
Hmm, too small for a beer, I thought, so I asked Sam what they were for. He patiently
explained that they were holders which are used to support the base of the fishing rod,
and would assist you in bringing in your fish. The chair itself had a name; it was called
a "fighting chair," which is designed to give the angler leverage to resist the
pull of an animal which can weigh much more than he does.
Hugo casts off, and begins to slowly motor out of the
harbor. Sam explains that in Manzanillo, which is the deepest natural harbor in
Mexico, it is not unusual to catch a sailfish only a few minutes out of the port. As soon
as we cleared the jetty, Hugo set the course and left the boat on automatic pilot, hopped
down from the bridge and proceeded to put out nine fishing lines. This is a complicated
procedure, since at 7 in the morning, no one is sure what the sailfish are really wanting
to eat that day. Having an experienced captain who really enjoys fishing is important at
this stage.
The rods and
reels are fairly light weight, but apparently sturdy enough to haul in the BIG ONE. Green
Eyes devotes himself to the task of selecting the lures. He explains, "Yesterday the
"pez vela" (sailfish) were biting on these," as he showed me a
huge, black-and-gold latex lure with a long-fringed shimmering tail. It was supposed to
imitate a yellowfin tuna, but I had to use my imagination. (As a kid in Missouri, I fished
with worms.) He also selected one that was yellow-green in color, imitating a dolphin
fish, or mahi-mahi (not to be confused with the dolphin, which is a mammal). Dolphin fish
are also called dorado. On another line he put on a blue-white lure, that fish think is a
flying fish, or mullet. Finally, he used live bait. The lines were set out and Hugo and
Sam carefully adjusted the lengths (to look like a school of fish, he said), and, figuring
it was going to be awhile, I climbed up to the bridge to enjoy the view (and chat with
Green Eyes). The voice of Jimmy Buffett was coming from the stereo, crooning, "...son
of a son of a sailor..."
Suddenly and unexpectedly (because we were only 5 minutes
out) the line on one of the poles whirred, and Sam shouted excitedly, "We've got a
hit!" I scrambled down from the bridge, as did Hugo, who started reeling in all the
other lines that he'd so carefully put out only moments before. Sam had me sit in the
fighting chair and handed me the rod. He showed me how to pull the rod up, then drop it
down and reel, pull it up, drop it down and reel, over and over. I was holding the rod,
and thought to myself, "Who needs that rod holder?" when Sam announced that the
fish was "only a tuna."
I wondered, "That's good, isn't it? After all, we have
a tuna processing plant in town, and so somebody must like tuna." Anyway, the
"little" 8-pound guy put up quite a fight, and I must say, after fishing all my
life for perch, trout, bass, and crappie (all a pound or under), reeling in 8 pounds of
thrashing, fighting fish is a lot of fun. Hugo smiled as he removed the tuna from the hook
and said, "This will make good ceviche!" (Ceviche is a Mexican appetizer made
with chopped raw fish, onions, tomatoes and cilantro, marinated in lime juice and served
on crisp tostadas). I found out later that was to be our lunch.
We put the lines out once more, and almost immediately
caught more tuna. The process of Hugo and Sam reeling in the empty lines (so the thrashing
fish doesn't swim over and under them, getting them tangled), went on several times, as we
continued to catch tuna. We were in a school. Finally Sam said, "Let's keep the lines
in until we get out of this school; we've caught enough tuna, and I want to get to where
the sails and marlin are." That was okay with me; my arms were tired and
we'd spent 2 hours reeling in fish and we weren't even out of the port yet!
Things quieted down as we trolled out to blue water, that
day about 7 miles due west. The sea was calm and the morning sun was out, and I enjoyed a
coke (breakfast) on the bridge. An hour went by and nothing much happened, other than the
fact that Sam and I decided to have our first beer of the day. Hugo doesn't drink while on
the job, so we saluted him and enjoyed the ice cold brew.
Hugo was up and down from the bridge, reeling in one line,
then another, trying different lures and bait. He was constantly on the radio with other
charter boat captains, checking to see if they'd caught anything, and if so, where was
their location? Nowadays, many fishing boats are equipped with radar and GPS (global
positioning satellite) receivers, but Hugo was born on the ocean and he could find ANYONE
AND ANYTHING by dead reckoning. He was watching the feeding birds and the jumping fish
(which means that bigger fish are probably chasing them below). The type of fish
jumping determines what the fish below might be, just as he knows that certain birds feed
on certain types of fish, which in turn are the food of certain other types of larger
fish. Predator and prey. Few anglers who charter big game boats and captains could
possibly catch fish by themselves.
The moment we've
been waiting for comes. Suddenly, and it's always suddenly, just when you get comfortable
with another beer, and think the entire experience is going to be how to get a better tan.
A line whirrs, and Sam and Hugo race to haul in the other lines and set the hook. A
magnificent sailfish jumps 3 feet out of the water, and I see it's for real this time.
This is the BIG ONE!
Sam sits me down in the fighting
chair and places the rod in the holder. We're working together now. He stands right beside
me, Dos XX in his hand, giving advice, helping me pull up on the rod. Although I was too
busy pulling and reeling to notice, Hugo was working the boat so as not to put too much
tension on the line and let it break.
The fish jumped again, shaking its head from side to side,
trying to rid itself of the hook. This time he was only about 60 yards from the boat. Only
about 10 minutes had passed, but my arms were getting tired, and I was relieved that the
fish was so close to the boat. I imagined the battle was almost over, but suddenly, Sam
starts to let out more line from my reel, until the spool was almost empty.
"What are
you doing?" I screamed, thinking Sam's actions were going to be the cuase of my first
and last coronary. He explained that the fish wasn't tired enough to bring him in (more
than likely he'd break the line) and that I needed to work him some more. "Give me
strength," I prayed, and asked for another beer. (I could see this was going to be a
2-beer fish!) I couldn't seem to get the right leverage with the rod in the holder, so I
took it out and placed it in the soft part of my stomach. That seemed to work better, and
I spent a half-hour working the fish again. My arms and back were so tired I told Sam several times that
I couldn't go on and begged him to take over. He refused to take the rod and I was
stuck with the BIG ONE at the end of my line. He did shout encouraging things, though,
like, "That's good, you're doing great...he's getting tired now..." and,
"Are you ready for another cold one..."! I'll be forever grateful to the Supreme
Diety and Dos XX for releasing enough adrenalin to get the fighting beast up to the boat.
Finally we
did get the fish in, but since I don't eat fish, and didn't want to kill him, we took
pictures and released him to fight another day. Sam estimated he was about 125 pounds (my
weight), and even though I won the battle, the fish won the war. The next day I was so
stiff and sore I could hardly pick up a cold one. There was a nice big bruise on my
stomach where I had rested the rod. (Now I know why they use those darn holders.)
A word about catch and release: Sam is the only charter
fishing boat owner in Manzanillo that willingly supports catch and release, which is why I
choose him. Manzanillo is the "Sailfish Capital of the World," but won't be
forever, if we don't do something to change our wasteful and ecologically ignorant
attitudes toward sportfishing.
We enjoy fishing because encounters with great pelagics,
such as sailfish and marlin are exciting and challenging. The sea is an enigma; we'll
probably never completely understand it. Perhaps part of the seduction of big game
fishing is involving ourselves in the ocean's mysteries by encounters with animals so
large that, other than man, they have few natural predators. A contest between two great
species--man and fish--doesn't have to end in the death of the "loser." A true
champion prides himself on showing compassion and mercy to the defeated. In this instance,
by promoting catch and release, and refusing to go out with boat captains who will not
honor your request, you can help protect our finite ocean resources.
I've learned that some captains promise to release your
fish, but don't do so once you're on their boat. Others say they donate the fish to
orphanages or hospitals. They don't. The fish are sold at the market. There's a hefty
profit in these big fish, and the boat captain receives 2 benefits; he makes money from
you for the trip, then money off the fish you catch.
Of course,
I realize there are sport fishermen out there that love to eat their catch! Sailfish,
marlin, tuna and dorado (mahi-mahi) do taste great! You don't need to feel guilty if you
really do want to eat your prize, because Sam and Marilyn have a deal with the famous
Guadalajara Grill restaurant. You and your
friends can enjoy a dinner there with your fish prepared any way you like it. I don't like
fish that much, and I dive with my fishy amigos daily, so, to me, eating fish is
like eating your pet dog. (Well, not exactly, but you get the picture!) On occasion,
though, I have joined fishing folks at the Grill, and admit the fish they prepare is
pretty tasty. (At least I have never personally known a sailfish, like the many colorful
varieties of fish I feed daily at Audiencia Beach!)
Aficionados of
sportfishing have also been known to mount their trophy fish. (No, that doesn't mean you
ride it.) That means having a plaster cast made of your fish and putting it on the
wall for all your friends to see. If you're married, it's usually the garage wall. If
you're single, it will probably sit in the crate for a couple of years while you look for
an apartment with a cathedral ceiling. Finding a wall to hang a 6 to 8 foot fish on is a
challenge! Or, you could try the ceiling of your rec room as one friend of mine has done.
It might be easier to have that photo you took of the BIG ONE enlarged and have it mounted
and hung on the wall. Cheaper, too!
Manzanillo
has two sportfishing tournaments held each year, the first in November and the other in
January. Whether you're a participant or an observer, the contest is exciting and
the prizes are fabulous, with everything from new cars to boat motors awarded to the
winners. This has been a tradition for more than
45 years, and is what has put Manzanillo on the map, record-wise, for sailfish, marlin and
dorado. There are strict rules and regulations that must be followed to make this a true
contest between man (or woman, since there are special categories for women) and fishy
beast. Sam's wife, Marilyn, holds the Manzanillo record for a 653 lb. marlin. (Marilyn's
on the far right; Green Eyes is on the left, and the fish is the one with the boy's head
in his mouth. Sorry, I lost half of the fish. When Marilyn catches the next record fish,
I'll hold the camera vertically. By the way, she placed thrid in the 1995 tourney.)
It is easy to understand why sailfishing is such a popular
sport. There's action, excitement, challenge and adventure rolled up into one 5-hour
package for a very reasonable price. (Deep sea fishing costs much less in Manzanillo than
in Baja California or Florida.) When you take up the challenge of fishing for the BIG ONE
in Manzanillo, tell your story to the webmaster@gomanzanillo.com.
And remember, you don't always get lucky like I did and catch a beauty the first time out.
(If you caught fish every time you tried, we'd call it catching instead of fishing!)
For more information on deep sea fishing, and other popular
Manzanillo activities, order the 150-page tourist
guidebook, "Manzanillo and the state of Colima, Facts, Tips and Day Trips."
Sam and Marilyn Short at Ocean
Pacific Adventures can take your reservations or answer your questions by e-mail: fish@gomanzanillo.com |